Introduction
Spring is the perfect season for outdoor climbing—cool temps, dry rock, and nature coming back to life. Whether you're into sport climbing, bouldering, or trad, here are some of the best climbing destinations in the U.S. to visit this spring.
1. Red River Gorge, Kentucky 🏞️ Best for Sport Climbing
Why Visit in Spring?
- Cool temps and low humidity make spring the prime season.
- Hundreds of sandstone sport routes, from beginner to expert.
- Beautiful forests and camping at Miguel’s Pizza, a climber’s hub.
Must-Climb Routes:
- Kaleidoscope (5.13c) – A world-class endurance testpiece.
- Funk Rock City (5.11b) – A classic steep jug haul.
- Plate Tectonics (5.10a) – A perfect intro to Red River steepness.
2. Bishop, California 🏜️ Best for Bouldering
Why Visit in Spring?
- Cooler weather before the summer heat kicks in.
- Legendary highball problems in the Buttermilks.
- Stunning views of the Sierra Nevada mountains.
Must-Climb Problems:
- Iron Man Traverse (V4) – A must-do long traverse in the Buttermilks.
- The Mandala (V12) – One of the most famous hard boulders in the U.S.
- Green Wall Center (V2) – A classic, technical face climb.
3. Joshua Tree, California 🌵 Best for Trad & Bouldering
Why Visit in Spring?
- The perfect season before summer heat arrives.
- Unique granite climbing with slopers, cracks, and technical face climbing.
- Surreal desert landscapes and iconic Joshua Trees.
Must-Climb Routes:
- Intersection Rock (5.7+) – Classic trad climbing with great exposure.
- Double Cross (5.7) – A splitter crack that every J-Tree climber should do.
- White Rastafarian (V2) – A legendary highball boulder problem.
4. Smith Rock, Oregon 🏔️ Best for Sport & Trad
Why Visit in Spring?
- Comfortable temps before the summer crowds.
- Stunning volcanic tuff cliffs with technical face climbing.
- A mix of bolted sport routes and adventurous trad lines.
Must-Climb Routes:
- Monkey Face (5.13a or 5.7 aid) – An iconic rock feature with a wild finish.
- Chain Reaction (5.12c) – A beautiful arête climb with perfect pockets.
- The Outsider (5.9) – A fun, moderate trad climb on amazing rock.
5. Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, Arkansas 🌄 Best for Sport & Trad
Why Visit in Spring?
- Mild weather and perfect sandstone climbing conditions.
- A great mix of single-pitch sport, trad, and even some bouldering.
- Climber-friendly ranch with camping and cabins on-site.
Must-Climb Routes:
- Crimp Scampi (5.11a) – A fun sport climb with powerful moves.
- Green Goblin (5.10d) – A technical face climb with an epic view.
- The Greatest Show (5.9) – A classic trad route with a steep finish.
Honorable Mentions 🌎
- Moab, Utah – For crack climbing and desert towers.
- New River Gorge, West Virginia – For endless sport and trad climbing.
- Hueco Tanks, Texas – Best in winter but still great for spring bouldering.
Conclusion
Spring is the perfect time to hit the road and climb some of the best crags in the country. Whether you’re looking for steep sport climbs, perfect cracks, or legendary boulders, there’s a destination for you. Before heading out, train on your home wall with climbing hold packages and modular wall design instructions to get in peak shape for your trip!