Introduction
Spring is one of the best times of year to hit the crag. The temps are crisp, the crowds are lighter than summer, and everything just feels… fresh. Whether you're chasing sun-drenched sandstone or cool alpine granite, here are the top climbing destinations to check out this April in the U.S.—complete with the kind of conditions that’ll make your fingers itch for chalk.
1. Red Rock Canyon, Nevada 🏜️
Why April Rocks:
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Warm but not scorching—perfect for sandstone.
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Epic trad and sport routes in a surreal desert backdrop.
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Close to Vegas for rest day entertainment.
Must-Do Routes:
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Olive Oil (5.7) – A trad classic with huge exposure.
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The Gift (5.12d) – Steep and powerful sport climbing at its best.
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Cat in the Hat (5.6) – Super fun multi-pitch for newer leaders.
2. Horse Pens 40, Alabama 🪨
Why April Rocks:
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Prime temps for sending boulders—cool mornings, grippy rock.
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Wild sandstone formations with slopey holds and dynamic movement.
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Affordable camping and low-key vibes.
Must-Try Problems:
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Millipede (V5) – Classic sloper testpiece.
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Slider (V9) – Power + technique = full send satisfaction.
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Genesis (V3) – A great intro to HP40 style.
3. Shelf Road, Colorado 🏞️
Why April Rocks:
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Sunny limestone walls and mild spring temps.
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Sport climber’s paradise with hundreds of routes.
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Ideal for long climbing weekends.
Must-Do Routes:
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Cactus Cliffs (5.10–5.12) – Lots of pocketed face climbing.
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Menses Prow (5.11d) – Technical and pumpy with awesome exposure.
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Freeform (5.10a) – A friendly warm-up that still keeps it interesting.
4. Smith Rock, Oregon 🌲
Why April Rocks:
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Dry season begins and crowds are still light.
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Stunning tuff cliffs and classic lines.
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Combo of sport and traditional climbing.
Must-Do Routes:
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Morning Glory Wall (5.8–5.11) – Iconic area for a reason.
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Chain Reaction (5.12c) – One of the most photographed routes in the U.S.
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5 Gallon Buckets (5.8) – Fun jugs and flowy movement.
5. Rumney, New Hampshire 🍁
Why April Rocks:
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Snow’s melted, rock’s dry, and bugs haven’t hatched yet.
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Granite sport climbing at its finest.
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Great range of grades with short approaches.
Must-Do Routes:
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Waimea Wall (5.12s) – Steep, powerful lines on bomber stone.
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Clip a Dee Doo Dah (5.3–5.11) – A fun sampler platter of grades.
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The Jimmy Cliff (5.8–5.10) – Great for progression and confidence building.
6. Joe’s Valley, Utah 🧱
Why April Rocks:
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Dry conditions and crisp air = perfect bouldering season.
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Sandstone boulders with varied styles—crimps, slopers, overhangs.
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Chill camping scene and beautiful landscapes.
Must-Try Problems:
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The Angler (V2) – A scenic riverside classic.
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Big Joe (V7) – Steep and powerful with cool features.
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Scrawny and Brawny (V11) – One for the crushers.
Tips for April Climbing Travel
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Pack for All Weather: Spring can surprise you with a mix of sun, wind, or snow.
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Research Closures: Some areas may have bird nesting or seasonal trail closures.
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Train Before You Go: Prep your fingers and power on your home wall with climbing hold packages.
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Have a Wall at Home? Create your dream training zone using modular wall design instructions.
Conclusion
If you’ve been waiting for the perfect excuse to road trip and send something fresh, April’s your month. With crisp temps and dry rock across the country, it's time to dust off your gear, gather your crew, and chase the send train. Whether you're hitting sandstone in the desert or granite in the northeast, these springtime crags are calling.