Gripping a crimp climbing hold can be tough, but mastering the technique is key to tackling more challenging routes. Crimps, those small, narrow holds that only allow room for your fingertips, require precision and strength. In this blog, we'll break down the proper ways to grip a crimp, keep your fingers safe, and improve your climbing performance.
The Two Main Ways to Grip a Crimp
There are two primary ways to grip a crimp hold: the full crimp and the half crimp. Each method has its advantages, but it’s important to know when and how to use them safely.
Full Crimp Grip
The full crimp grip involves curling your fingers tightly over the hold, with your thumb pressing down over your index finger for added support. This grip maximizes the strength in your fingers, allowing you to hold onto tiny edges or incuts that might seem impossible otherwise.
Here’s how to perform a full crimp grip:
- Curl your fingers sharply so the first knuckles are almost perpendicular to the surface of the hold.
- Press your thumb over your index finger, adding extra support and stability.
- Keep tension in your entire hand, locking your fingers in place.
While the full crimp gives you a lot of power, it’s also very strenuous on your finger tendons. Using this grip too often or for long periods can lead to injuries, especially to your A2 pulley—a common climbing injury.
When to use the full crimp:
- On very small, shallow holds where more grip strength is needed.
- On routes where you need maximum power for a short period.
Half Crimp Grip
The half crimp grip is a safer and more sustainable way to hold crimp climbing holds. In this grip, your fingers bend at the knuckles, but your thumb does not press down over your fingers. This allows you to grip smaller holds with reduced strain on your tendons.
Here’s how to perform a half crimp grip:
- Bend your fingers at the second knuckles so your fingers are slightly curled over the hold.
- Keep your thumb off your fingers, allowing your fingers to work independently.
- Focus on balance and finger tension, using your body weight to maintain grip.
The half crimp is a much more natural hand position, making it ideal for longer climbing sessions and preventing finger injuries. While it doesn’t provide as much power as a full crimp, it’s a more sustainable grip for technical climbs.
When to use the half crimp:
- On moderately small holds that don’t require maximum power.
- For long climbs where maintaining finger health is important.
Improving Your Crimp Grip
To develop a strong crimp grip, you’ll need to work on your finger strength. Here are some ways to improve:
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Hangboard Training: Hangboards with small edges are perfect for building finger strength. Start with shorter holds (5-10 seconds) and gradually increase the time as your strength improves.
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Dead Hangs: Practice dead hangs on a bar or hangboard using your fingertips. This builds grip strength while reinforcing proper technique.
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Gradual Route Progression: Start on routes with larger holds and slowly work your way to more crimp-heavy climbs. This helps condition your fingers for the demands of crimping without overstraining them.
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Warming Up: Before attempting crimp-intensive climbs, warm up your fingers and hands with light stretching and mobility exercises. This reduces the risk of injury when you’re gripping small holds.
Safety and Injury Prevention
Crimping can place a lot of stress on your fingers and tendons, particularly with the full crimp grip. To avoid injuries, keep the following in mind:
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Mix it up: Don’t rely on crimping for every climb. Alternate between jugs, pinches, and other types of holds to reduce strain on your fingers.
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Use the half crimp more often: It’s a safer grip, allowing you to climb longer without overloading your tendons.
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Rest your hands: Give your fingers time to recover between crimp-heavy sessions, especially if you feel any soreness or strain in your tendons.
Conclusion
Mastering crimp holds is essential for advancing in climbing, but it’s crucial to use the proper techniques to avoid injury. By practicing both the full crimp and half crimp grips and improving your finger strength over time, you’ll be able to tackle challenging routes while protecting your fingers.
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