Multi-pitch climbing takes the adventure to new heights, literally! Unlike single-pitch climbs, multi-pitch routes require you to ascend multiple sections of rock, stopping at belay stations along the way. For climbers looking to explore bigger walls and longer routes, multi-pitch climbing is the next exciting challenge. Here's a complete guide to help new climbers prepare for their first multi-pitch adventure.
1. Understand the Basics of Multi-Pitch Climbing
Multi-pitch climbing involves climbing a route in stages, or “pitches.” Each pitch typically ranges from 30 to 60 meters in length. Climbers alternate between leading and belaying, making their way up the route one pitch at a time.
- Leader and follower: The climber who leads places protection (in trad climbing) or clips into pre-placed bolts (in sport climbing). Once the leader reaches the belay station, they secure themselves and belay the second climber, who follows and cleans the gear.
- Belay stations: Belay stations are set up at the end of each pitch. These are places where climbers can rest, exchange gear, and prepare for the next pitch.
2. Build Your Multi-Pitch Skills
Before tackling multi-pitch routes, make sure you're confident in these essential skills:
- Belaying: You need to be skilled at both lead and top-rope belaying. Practicing at a gym or single-pitch crag will help.
- Rope management: Multi-pitch climbing involves handling a lot of rope. Learn how to properly coil ropes and avoid tangles at belay stations to prevent delays.
- Anchor building: In trad multi-pitch, you'll need to build solid anchors at belay stations. Even in sport climbing, knowing how to assess anchors is important for safety.
Practicing these skills on your home climbing wall can improve your confidence and ability. Check out our climbing hold collections and wall design instructions to create a space where you can hone your technique.
3. Plan and Pack for the Route
Multi-pitch climbs often take several hours or even the entire day. You’ll need to pack light but be prepared for the duration of the climb:
- Climbing gear: Bring a rack of cams, nuts, quickdraws (depending on whether it’s a trad or sport climb), ropes, belay devices, and slings for building anchors.
- Clothing: Dress in layers. Even if the weather starts warm, temperatures can drop as you ascend higher or when you’re stuck waiting at a belay station.
- Food and water: Carry easy-to-eat, high-energy snacks like energy bars or trail mix. Bring plenty of water to stay hydrated, especially on long, sunny routes.
4. Get Familiar with Communication
On multi-pitch climbs, communication between climbers is key. You may be unable to see or hear each other clearly due to wind, distance, or obstacles. Develop a system of clear communication:
- Commands: Use universal commands like “On belay,” “Off belay,” “Climbing,” and “Take.” Practice them before starting the climb.
- Rope tugs: Some climbers use rope tugs as signals if they can’t hear each other. For example, one strong tug might mean “off belay,” while two tugs could signal that the climber is starting the next pitch.
5. Stay Safe with Route-Finding and Weather Awareness
Multi-pitch climbs often require route-finding, meaning you’ll need to look for the correct path while ascending.
- Route finding: Before starting, study guidebooks or online beta to get a sense of the climb’s direction and key landmarks. Look out for bolts (in sport climbing) or natural features like cracks and ledges (in trad).
- Weather checks: Be aware of the weather forecast before attempting a multi-pitch climb. Sudden storms, high winds, or rain can be dangerous. If in doubt, wait for better conditions or choose an easier route.
6. Practice Efficient Transitions
Speed is safety in multi-pitch climbing, especially on long routes. Practice efficient transitions at belay stations to save time:
- Flaking the rope: When the second climber reaches the belay station, the rope may need to be flaked (laid out neatly) to prevent tangles before starting the next pitch.
- Gear organization: Keep your gear organized at the belay station, so you can easily pass it to the leader or place it on your harness. Having a routine will make your transitions smoother.
7. Prepare Mentally for the Exposure
Multi-pitch climbs often mean dealing with significant exposure, as you ascend higher and higher. This can feel intimidating for new climbers, but mental preparation can help:
- Breathe and stay calm: Focus on controlled breathing, especially when the height starts to feel overwhelming. Deep, steady breaths will help you stay focused and calm.
- Trust your gear: Confidence in your rope, belay, and protection is crucial. Trusting your equipment can reduce fear and allow you to focus on the climb.
Multi-pitch climbing offers incredible views, a sense of accomplishment, and an immersive climbing experience that single-pitch routes can’t match. With the right preparation and skills, you can confidently take on multi-pitch climbs and explore bigger and bolder walls. If you're looking to train for your next adventure, consider setting up a home wall with our climbing hold collections and wall design instructions to get started.