Introduction
Finger strength is a crucial part of climbing, and the right climbing holds can make all the difference in building it. Whether you’re working on crimps, pinches, or pockets, choosing holds that target specific grip types will help you level up your strength and technique. Here’s a guide to the best climbing holds for finger strength training and how to incorporate them into your home wall.
1. Crimps: Small Edges for Precision
Crimps are small holds that challenge your finger tendons and precision.
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Why They’re Great:
- Build tendon strength in your fingers.
- Improve your grip for outdoor climbs on small edges.
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How to Use Them:
- Start with larger crimps and progress to smaller ones.
- Incorporate into traversing routes or short boulder problems.
Explore climbing hold packages that include a variety of crimps for all skill levels.
2. Pinches: Strengthen Your Thumbs and Fingers
Pinches require you to grip the hold using your thumb and fingers together.
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Why They’re Great:
- Enhance thumb strength and overall grip power.
- Mimic real-world climbing features like cracks and flakes.
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How to Use Them:
- Set routes with pinches at different angles for variety.
- Combine pinches with overhanging sections for added difficulty.
3. Pockets: Focus on Finger Tendons
Pockets are holds with holes that fit one to three fingers, forcing you to engage specific tendons.
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Why They’re Great:
- Strengthen individual fingers.
- Prepare you for outdoor climbs with pocketed routes.
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How to Use Them:
- Start with two-finger pockets before progressing to single-finger ones.
- Incorporate them into traversing or strength-focused routes.
4. Slopers: Test Your Open-Hand Strength
Slopers are rounded holds that rely on friction and open-hand grip.
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Why They’re Great:
- Improve wrist and forearm strength.
- Teach you to rely on body positioning rather than finger strength alone.
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How to Use Them:
- Set slopers on vertical or slab sections to focus on technique.
- Combine with dynamic moves for added challenge.
5. Hangboards: The Ultimate Finger Strength Tool
Hangboards are designed specifically for finger strength training.
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Why They’re Great:
- Allow for highly targeted strength training.
- Offer a variety of grips, from edges to pockets.
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How to Use Them:
- Start with short hangs and gradually increase duration.
- Use hangboards for supplemental training on rest days.
6. Mixed Hold Routes: A Balanced Approach
For a well-rounded workout, combine different hold types into a single route:
- Build Variety: Alternate between crimps, pinches, and slopers on your wall.
- Challenge Yourself: Gradually increase the difficulty by reducing the size or grip of holds.
- Pro Tip: Use modular wall design instructions to create routes that incorporate mixed holds for finger strength.
7. Safety Tips for Finger Strength Training
- Warm up your fingers and forearms before starting.
- Avoid overtraining to prevent injuries like tendon strain.
- Use proper technique to minimize stress on your joints.
Conclusion
Finger strength is essential for improving your climbing performance, and the right holds can help you train effectively. Whether you’re focusing on crimps, pinches, or slopers, adding these holds to your home wall will enhance your grip and climbing ability. Start customizing your wall with climbing hold packages and modular wall design instructions to achieve your strength goals!