Choosing the right climbing shoes can make all the difference in tackling different rock types and routes. From sport climbs to bouldering, granite slabs to sandstone pockets, each rock and route type has unique demands on your footwear. Here’s a guide to the best climbing shoes based on route style and rock type to help you maximize performance and comfort.
1. Best Shoes for Granite Slabs and Edges
Granite often requires precise footwork, especially on slabby routes that emphasize balance and friction.
- Recommended Shoe Type: Look for shoes with a stiff sole and a low profile for edging precision. Slightly downturned shoes can provide an edge, but you’ll want a flat toe for optimal surface contact on slabs.
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Top Picks:
- La Sportiva TC Pro – Known for its exceptional comfort and edging ability, this shoe is ideal for granite climbing, especially on longer routes.
- Scarpa Maestro – With a stiff sole and minimal downturn, it’s perfect for technical footwork on slabs and edges.
2. Shoes for Sandstone and Pocketed Limestone
When climbing on sandstone or limestone, routes often have deep pockets and small ledges, demanding excellent toe strength and comfort.
- Recommended Shoe Type: A shoe with moderate to aggressive downturn will help you grip pockets and ledges. Look for good rubber traction and reinforced toe boxes.
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Top Picks:
- Scarpa Instinct VS – Its downturned profile and sticky rubber make it ideal for pocketed sandstone and limestone.
- Five Ten Anasazi – With a flat profile and excellent rubber, it’s a top choice for edging and maneuvering through complex sandstone features.
3. Ideal Shoes for Crack Climbing
Crack climbing requires shoes that are comfortable yet supportive enough to withstand jamming in narrow spaces.
- Recommended Shoe Type: A flat, low-profile shoe with a slightly stiff sole provides the support needed for jamming while still allowing flexibility.
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Top Picks:
- La Sportiva Mythos – With its comfortable fit and flat profile, it’s perfect for crack climbing and long multi-pitch routes.
- Butora Altura – This shoe has a low-profile fit and high ankle coverage, great for protecting your feet during crack climbs.
4. Bouldering Shoes for Steep, Overhung Problems
Bouldering often involves short, intense problems that require maximum power and grip. Shoes with an aggressive downturn and a snug fit provide optimal performance on steep, overhung boulders.
- Recommended Shoe Type: Aggressive shoes with a tight fit and sticky rubber for toe and heel hooks are best for bouldering.
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Top Picks:
- La Sportiva Solution – With its aggressive downturn and snug heel, it’s one of the top choices for bouldering.
- Scarpa Drago – Known for its sensitivity and aggressive shape, it’s a favorite among boulderers tackling steep problems.
5. Sport Climbing Shoes for Technical Routes
Sport climbing shoes should provide precision and power, especially on routes with small edges and overhangs. Shoes with a moderate downturn and solid edging capabilities work well for technical sport routes.
- Recommended Shoe Type: A moderately downturned shoe that balances comfort and performance, with a focus on edging and grip.
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Top Picks:
- Evolv Shaman – Great for technical footwork and overhangs, with a comfortable fit that doesn’t sacrifice performance.
- Tenaya Mastia – With its slightly aggressive profile and excellent sensitivity, it’s ideal for precise foot placements on small holds.
6. Shoes for All-Day Multi-Pitch and Trad Routes
For long routes and multi-pitch climbs, comfort is key. Look for shoes with a supportive, neutral shape that provides stability without the pain that aggressive shoes can cause over time.
- Recommended Shoe Type: Neutral or slight downturn with a stiff sole for support on long climbs. Choose a fit that’s comfortable for hours.
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Top Picks:
- Five Ten Grandstone – Its supportive and comfortable design makes it ideal for trad and multi-pitch routes.
- Scarpa Helix – With its flat profile and comfortable fit, it’s perfect for long days on the wall.
Selecting the right shoe is all about matching your footwear to the route and rock type. For home training, consider building a wall with holds that mimic your favorite rock type using our climbing hold collections and wall design instructions to prepare for your next outdoor climb.