Crimp holds are a staple in climbing, especially when it comes to challenging routes that require finger strength, balance, and precision. But what exactly are crimp holds, and how can you use them to improve your climbing?
What Are Crimp Climbing Holds?
Crimp holds are small climbing holds that only provide enough space for your fingertips. Unlike larger, more forgiving holds like jugs, crimps require you to grip with just the tips of your fingers. These holds often appear on technical routes where precision and finger strength are critical. You’ll usually encounter them on slab, vertical, or overhanging walls, where there isn’t much to hold on to except the tiniest edges.
Types of Crimp Holds
Crimp holds can come in different styles depending on the depth and surface of the hold:
- Flat Crimps: These are shallow and narrow, giving you just enough room for your fingertips. They’re common on bouldering problems and difficult climbing routes.
- Rounded Crimps: These have a slightly rounded surface, making them harder to grip but less harsh on your fingers.
- Incuts: These have a slight indentation or “bite” to them, making it easier to lock your fingers in but still requiring a lot of strength.
- Micro Crimps: These tiny holds offer almost no room for your fingers, making them especially challenging for even the most experienced climbers.
How to Grip Crimp Holds
Crimp holds require specific techniques to ensure you’re using them effectively and safely. There are two primary ways to grip a crimp:
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Full Crimp Grip: This involves curling your fingers tightly over the hold, with your thumb pressing over your index finger for added support. While this grip gives you more power, it also puts a lot of strain on your finger tendons, so it’s best to use this sparingly.
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Half Crimp Grip: In this grip, your fingers are bent, but your thumb is not wrapped over them. This position is more comfortable for longer climbs and reduces strain on your tendons while still providing a solid grip.
When Are Crimp Holds Used?
Crimp holds are often used in more technical climbing routes where other large, easy-to-grip holds aren’t available. You’ll see them on:
- Vertical or slab routes: These require delicate footwork and balance. Crimps force you to rely on precision and technique.
- Overhanging routes: Here, crimps become part of a power-focused move where strong fingers and arms are crucial.
- Bouldering problems: Crimps often feature in short, powerful sequences that test your grip strength and problem-solving abilities.
How to Improve Your Ability to Hold Crimps
Because crimps require so much finger strength, climbers often train specifically for them using tools like hangboards or fingerboards. These devices have small edges similar to crimp holds and allow you to practice gripping for increasing periods of time. Strengthening exercises, such as finger curls with weights and isometric holds, can also help you prepare for crimps.
It’s essential to remember that crimping places a lot of stress on your tendons. Always warm up your fingers before climbing on crimp-heavy routes, and gradually increase the intensity of your crimp training to avoid injury.
Conclusion
Crimp climbing holds are a crucial element of technical climbing. Whether you’re tackling a tough bouldering route or working on your finger strength for sport climbing, understanding how to use crimps effectively is key to advancing your skills. By practicing the right techniques and training regularly, you can build the finger strength and precision needed to master even the smallest crimps.
Ready to challenge yourself with crimp holds? Explore our collection of climbing hold packages to find the right crimp holds for your home wall and start working on those finger-strength gains!